Budapest is one of the most tricky circuits. Many corners and none of them easy. 

If you want, there already exists a video guide for the LFM License on Hungary, but we'll review it written here again.

The Qualifying lap we're looking at is from this Audi R8 Evo II data pack - a 1:42.295.

General

A total of 5 near 180° corners define this track. Yet, they differ in radius and want slightly different approaches. 
The other defining sections are the chicane followed by the esses where each corner depends on the one before and the right compromise will be the key to lap time.
As always, track limits are rather wide and extending as much as it is allowed will allow you to carry more momentum onto the straights. 

Corners

Turn 1
The first hairpin of the track wants a single apex approach, pretty much in the middle of the turn. The slowest point however is already slightly before the car is the most inside. This means the ideal way to drive is to be harsh on throttle here, which will bring the car further to the inside even while already increasing speed. Note that there's barely any coasting.
Trail braking is very important as the car will become rather slow without any downforce supporting the front grip in the late stages of braking. Roughly 30m out of the 145m braking zone are characterized by decreasing the brake in line with an increasing steering angle. 90° of steering are enough for most of the track. This will be even less with lower steer ratios. 

Turn 2-3
Let's work this section backwards as those 2 corners are already connected - which means that the exit of turn 2 will define the entry of turn 3. The target is to smartly choose where to be fast and gain time. Here the smartest way is to be fast on the straight which means you need a good exit from T3, which means you want a wide entry - wide enough so that T3 is just about flat out!
The problem is that there's very little time to reposition after T2. In order to still make it back to the left side of the track you cannot run wide out of T2. Instead the widest position after Turn 2 is pretty much the middle of the track. This now requires to be tight late in turn 2 - so a late apex. Because we have a very long turn 2 with almost 180° to cover we can do some sort of double apex. This means we will be tight early in the corner, run wide in the middle where we will also be the slowest and come back to the inside on throttle for the late, 2nd apex. Because we are slowing down so deep into the corner, the brake trace shows a much longer trailing phase than for T1 - pretty much 80% of the entire braking will be trailing as we require the front tires to be able to rotate the car already and are almost never braking in a straight line.

Turn 4-5
The same principal applies here: Little time to reposition for T5, so you need to be aggressive after T4 to make it across. Don't become lazy here. For T4 focus on the cone on the inside of the kerb while the kerb itself is still invisible - this way you'll have a good idea where you are heading. You can usually take the entire inside kerb. As the corner is rather fast, we don't want to brake deep into it and instead be done with braking before coming towards the apex and use the throttle to stabilize the car. You'll also need to be aggressive to keep rotating it.
Turn 5 starts with a very short straight braking phase followed by long trailing that itself is split up into the initial brake release phase and the very low level brake holding into the turn until the inside line finally provides grip. There is absolutely 0 grip on the outside. We are looking at an apex that is last third of the turn, while the slowest point is already after one third of the corner. Due to the wide track limits the corner opens up, allowing us to accelerate quite early. However, the bumps will challenge the rear and this is where you can see a bit of taking care with the throttle after an initial aggressive throttle kick to start the car's rotation.

Turn 6-7 (Chicane) 
The most crucial info here is that you are done braking before the first kerb and immediately back on throttle to lift up the nose and allow the car to fit the sausages underneath you. This means the slowest point in that corner is before the corner. The track limits are very lenient here and the entire car can be on the kerb. This will need a few attemps to get a feeling where the sausage needs to be placed under the car, but once you get the hang of it, there's a ton of lap time. The 2nd kerb is less flat but there's a way to fit this sausage, too. You need to be on throttle, once you lift the throttle or brake the car will crash into the sausage. Additionally the throttle provides stability while the car is bouncing.

Turn 8-11 (Esses)
Take a close look at the compromises. The apexes are always in the middle of each turn, while the slowest point is only in the middle in t8, but before the corners of t9 and t11. The most important compromise is to not run wide after turn 8 (similar to turn 2), in order to rather have a wide entry and good exit in turn 9 out of which you need to carry the speed more importantly than out of 8. Only very little braking (and all of it low level trailing) will be needed if you positioned correctly. While the kerb of 8 can be used, turn 9 has a more tricky kerb. If you use it, try to climb up to the flat part on top, else the angled part will push the car out of the corner (you won't always manage that, just be aware of the impact the different parts of the kerb will have on the car). On exit of 9 the track limits again are very wide which allows to build much more speed. 
The turn 10 kink is important, too. Don't run too wide here and it can be beneficial to be very quick with the steering into 10 in an attempt to force the rear around, using the kerb additionally helps to rotate the car and be back on the outside quickly before braking for 11. Again exit of 11 is the important part, as a straight follows afterwards. A short sharp braking while changing direction (this will help to get the rear to come around) followed by a bit of coasting and potential corrections on either brake or throttle are very typical and ok here. Rather carry slightly too much speed initially and use the brake again in small doses to pull the car further to the inside. Once you notice the car will get to the very inside of the kerb, slam the throttle to exploit the additional rotation coming from the kerb.

T12-14
The last 3 corners are more or less individual. Again T12 has the apex placed right in the middle, you can use or avoid the kerb - both ways are fine. Just be sure the slowest point is already before the turn and the track on exit again is really wide.

Turn 13 needs a slight double apex (don't go too wide in the middle), very similar to turn 2. The only difference is that you can run wide on exit as there's more time to reposition for the last corner (but don't get lazy doing so). 

Turn 14 however is a bit faster (about 20kph more than T13) and on entry downforce already plays a role, which makes the car rather pitch sensitive. The initial sharp braking will be challenging as the rear tries to step out, so small steering angles are needed here. It helps to almost diagonally brake towards the first early apex and then trailing VERY carefully until about the middle of the turn, where you will run ever so slightly wide, before coming back onto the throttle to pin the car to the inside and accelerate through the 2nd, late apex. Track limits again wide and then you're done - hopefully faster than before this guide!

Nürburgring is the other very technical track after Barcelona. We again have high speed, medium and low speed corners. There's on design pattern that sticks out: There are several sections where two corners are tied together. T1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 10-11.

We'll look at what appears to be one of the quickest cars here currently: The M4 with a 1:52.3 on the AOR servers (23°C). As always recommended do compare yourself directly to the benchmarks in your car - there's literally no way you will not benefit. Free to try using my Snetterton M4 GT3 Data Pack, as always.

For your own comparison just find your car here. Or if you are already have the CDA Setup Subscription or were eyeing it, our CDA Data addon allows to compare to all their laps instantly.

T1-2

T1 has a very traditional approach, apex and slowest point in the corner are right in the middle, the car grips up nicely as you drop down the step right after the apex, so can mostly floor the throttle. The key now is to take T1 slow enough to still make it across just in time for a good entry position into T2.
T2's key is to not brake and to turn in before releasing the throttle (you want to load up both right side tires before shifting the weight onto the front). You can safely be a little too quick initially and maintain a stable car with SLIGHT forced understeer (=turning more than the front tires will take) and keep reducing speed with TINY brake inputs until the car gravitates towards the kerb for a late apex (last third of the corner). A higher gear might help with traction and predictability.

T3-4

Again its all about the line. You can use the paved inside behind the kerb and go for a very late tight line. The target here is to be fast on the straight after T4 and building speed through T4 already, which only works from a very wide entry. Your throttle position through T4 will be key. The throttle controls the differential which, if opened (=low/no throttle), allows the car to rotate. Only lift enough to get the turn in, but do not lift all the way as the weight shifts will be detrimental to your line and minimum speed. Over the kerb dont full throttle it, as the rear will snap or you can get "stuck" in understeer. Patience is needed and gently accelerating until the car stops bouncing.

T5-6

Same Idea here. Go only as wide after T5 to still get into a good position for T6. So dialing speed back in 5 can help, aim for late apex. Then in T6 many lines are possible, the best certainly is somewhat of a double or single late apex. It's worth it to use the F7 came to investigate the shape of the T6 kerb - whoever built it was drunk, as it changes its radius very often, which can make driving in reference to the kerb quite confusing. Just take those shape changes into account and don't be deceived into thinking you're going wide or too tight suddenly when its just the kerb's weird shape.

T7

T7 is the prototype double apex. Deep and careful trail braking through a first apex, into a wide position in the middle of the turn where you will be the slowest and from where you start accelerating through the 2nd apex.

T8/9

Deliberately posting the image like this: Take the corner as if it was only a left hander. You'll never no manage the right. The key on entry is to lift the throttle only a tiny amount. Sometimes it will be flat out even, but its just more consistent with a tiny and maximum of 30-40% lift off the throttle. The timing for that will be just as you come off the entry kerb and the car has settled.

T10-11

Same pattern as in 1-2,3-4,5-6. You want to come back across before T11. More importantly you want to have the car almost or fully straight as you hit the brake. Else you will be scared to run into the grass and leave a security margin on the left. The turn itself needs minimal braking. Everything else will make the car rather sensitive on entry, just reduce some speed, then coast and make corrections along the way to hit a late apex once more. No shifting during the turn, it will ruin your corner.

Chicane:

The key is to saturate the front end quickly on entry. This will lead to a balanced, if anything slightly understeery car as you trail off. Brake early enough to reach your slowest point already BEFORE the the first apex. Being on throttle through the chicane is crucial for stability in the transition and over the kerbs. With throttle applied to can through the car around more aggressively as well without loosing the rear.

T15

Clean trailing is important as there's quite low grip. The idea is similar to the dunlop corner (T7). Just now we want the double apex to be less pronounced and with the slowest point slightly earlier already - say one third into the corner. There's just no grip further on the outside, so we can't drive a more pronounced double apex. No matter if you hit the first apex or not, the crucial one is the 2nd apex late in the corner, to have the rear end capable of converting throttle into speed.

It's Snetterton as Lowfuelmotorsport's main series this week. So paired with the already public video guide (Deutsch) here's a written version!

It's also the perfect opportunity to get started with Popometer.io because there is a free BMW M4 Data Pack that you can access without any paywall!

Generally, Snetterton consists of slow and tight corners, the track isnt very wide and rather slippery and bumpy - in short: Challenging. 
There's barely a straight and in any GT3 you will run all the downforce the car can generate without becoming too instable (we'll see later why).

T1:

Turn 1 has a very short braking zone, hitting 100% only for a fraction of a second before the trailing takes over. High downforce at rather high speed here, which means the car is pitch sensitive on the brake, which is why your brake foot controls how much rotation you get (more brake -> more pitch -> more ration). You could say it's in fact two corners. with an almost invisible straight in between. However, you'll clip the first apex where you will also be the slowest. Once you notice making the first exit, you will need to slam the throttle aggressivbely, run wide a bit and this should result in keeping the rotation going and bringing you back for a 2nd apex at the end of this opening corner. 

T2:

Several approaches are viable here: A single late apex, a traditional centered apex or even a slight double apex approach. Personally I prefer to focus on having a straight car for the exit to aid traction, which means having a late apex or double apex. Important to trail carefully here on the brakes as the lack of downforce at that speed reduces grip quite noticably.

 T3

Turn 3 sees the slowest point of the corner around one third into the corner and you can see that again the brake is used carefully and never hitting 100%, as you have to turn in right away. Also again the hard throttle should keep the rotation going and bring the car closer to the inside for an eventual apex roughly two thirds into the corner. The exit kerb works, but is insanely bumpy - take care.

Turn 4 is literally turn 2 mirrored and we'll skip that one :D

T5:

Turn 5 only needs the tiniest of braking to reduce some speed. It's crucial to turn in right away in sync with the brake, which leads to a sensitive car. However the easier you are on the brake, the more in control you will be. If you are too hard on the brake you will get either under or oversteer and will always have to react - we want to be active, not reactive.

T6-7:

Turn 6/7 are interesting. First you need to reposition and swing across after turn 5 really quickly to straighten up before braking. Again careful trailing as always once you start turning in and hand over the grip to the steering. You can use a lot of kerb on the inside but throttle application needs a bit more care this time as the corner is still lasting for a while with the tightening turn 7 and the track is just not that grippy. Its useful to not go fully wide after 6 and only do so once you exit 7 - there's simply more grip further to the middle.

T8:

Again tricky corner as the speed you approach it depends on your T6/7 exit, which can lead to furhter inconsistencies. Either way, there will hardly be much braking needed. Just a quick dash on the brake and then almost roll into the corner with only tiny corrections further reducing the speed (or keeping it up with tiny throttle inputs). The slowest point should be pretty much in the middle of the corner, while the apex comes rather late to have a straighter car for the exit and good traction. Throttle can be quite blunt in the middle of the turn, for the car to rotation on power through the late apex.

T9-10:
You hate that corner, right? Let's make you love it. The key here is to have only ONE uninterrupted braking zone. The car behaves a certain way on the brake as you trail off, leading to pitch while cornering and a lose rear end. In order to not have various car behaviors we always want to be braking - this way the car always pitches forward and your brake foot controls how much oversteer you want. If you let go off the brake and then brake again, you get several behavior changes which will make the corner harder to predict and more inconsistent. Aim to keep it tight through the left hander - the exit of the right yields a lot of time if you focus to build speed there. Going shallow into T10 means being punted pretty much as usually people behind you underestimate how slow you will become.

T11:

You don't really need to brake here. Just letting go off the throttle ever so slightly will be enough to get the car to rotate and slow down. Once on the inside kerb you can full throttle it again - the corner opens up with rather wide kerb - but they are bumpy. The less steering angle you will need on the kerb the better. 

T12-13:

A brutal corner combo. You can throw the front engine cars in quite aggressively, while still being on full throttle. Only once you make it to the inside let go off the throttle and adjust from there. You can carry quite high speed for quite some time and let the car run wide roughly until the center off the track, where you want to have the speed reduced enough, to come back to the inside will full throttle applied. You can see the double apex approach - which is important to be able to brake in a slightly straighter or even fully straight line for the last corner. The straighter the car, the more in control you will be. Depending on the car it can be beneficial not just outright slamming the brake, but giving the car a few tenths to get to 100%. This way you will still rotate on the brake for a bit, before it becomes rather understeery in the heavy braking. Once out of position it will be hard to adjust - so really aim to get this part right and the exit of the last corner will come all on its own.

Enjoy! :)

Barcelona is the F1 test track for good reasons. It has high speed, low speed, mid speed corners. You need downforce, power and agility. It overloads one side of the car to bring out its worst behavior. It's a challenging track for material and its a challenging track for drivers. Even with the long straight its pretty much a maximum downforce track - and that means we'll see the typical cars up ahead in LFM this week. For a coaching I took the Porsche for a spin so I had that lap ready to analyze for today. Enjoy! You'll get to compare yourself again on Popometer.io. If you already happen to have the CDA Setup subscription we now have a nice addon with all their laps (collection growing) to review your driving against their laps. We're looking at a 1:42.4 here with a rather stable setup - not a giga sensitive eSpOrtZ setup ;) I've shared the lap here (when you have the subscription)

Barcelone full track

Turn 1-3
Turn 1-3 must be seen as a unit. Go deep in turn 1 and you'll still be out of position for turn 3 and lose time on the straight towards turn 4. So its important to make the right compromise here. Think the section backwards. You want to enter turn 3 from a rather wide position, slightly more than half track width. This mean's you can't take T2 flat and it also means you have to stay somewhat tight exiting turn 1. Braking is done almost off the track with the car entirely on the kerb and its a good marker for yourself to place the inner wheels behind the sausage of T1. The T2 kerb works in most cars, but will require a slight lift on throttle, just to not get a snappy rear. Turn 3 in GT3's does not need braking except for the tiniest of speed corrections. Going off throttle will be enough and i case of the Porsche going off throttle half way will be sufficient - and needed to not spin. The throttle will keep the diff engaged and also the pitch limited, stabilizing your car. Note the separation of slowest point and tightest point in the corner. Meaning the on throttle moment should create additional rotation pulling you to the inside initially. A tight line often yields lap time instead of running wide, while also saving the tires a bit.

T1-3

T3 with slowest (x) and apex (grey dot) markings

T4-5:
Again viewing them as a unit as you really have to transition quickly after 4 to still be on the outside for 5. Yet, not as difficult and crucial as in t1-3. In T4 apex and slowest point really fall into the same place and quite early in the corner. We're not even 1/4th into the corner when we already want to be near the kerb (not on it!!) and already lost all the speed. From here the corner opens up so you can get away with ever wider radiuses which equals higher speed. Note the throttle application being a little cautious waiting for the rear to find the traction before flooring it. Also typical for the Porsche is the very subtle, barely existent trail braking as the rear end is so loose already. Another key here is saturating the front grip quickly by steering fast and in fact over the grip limit of the front tire - this will stabilize the car massively - aka "forced understeer".

For T5 make sure that as you brake, you want the car to go straight and not already cornering. It would take the grip from the inside tire too early and cause it to lock up. That's why the aggressive repositioning is important to not be braking with the car already turning left ever so slightly. T5 can be taken with 2 approaches. Double apex, one early, one late, or with a single late apex (that i prefer). The slowest point will be before the tightest point in the corner, meaning you will accelerate through the late apex (with either approach) allowing a straight exit taking lateral load away from the rears.

T4-5

T6(-7):
You'll have to be done braking early as the road has quite a large bump in the braking zone easily locking the fronts on turn in if you still need to get rid of speed. Rather again use quick and slightly too much steering to roll the car into the corner and scrub some speed over the fronts. You use more rear tires here anyway so the fronts will be happy to work a bit more - which will also help your long run balance.I've deliberately cropped the track image like that to highlight that you are essentially only driving a LEFT TURN. Don't even think about the right turn. There's literally no way you are not making the right hander. Getting a good feeling for the track limits here is important because it yields a lot of lap time carrying every tiny speed advantage up the hill.

T6 (ignore T7 really)

T8:
Everyone hates it, even those who can do it. It's a blind crest, hard to find braking and turn in points and reduce the right amount of speed while trying to find the apex. Just Porsche things: Brake slightly to not upset the car and still remain on throttle to keep the rear at least somewhat stable. Off throttle the car just wont tolerate the corner. You can see the choppy steering trace indicating a lot carefulness when turning more and more with the rear always on the verge of snapping. Finding the minimum throttle you need to hold here will be key (However, ONLY Porsche and some other mid engine car thing). Slowest point again earlier than the apex. I favor a late apex because it ensures you are rarely running into the sand on exit but still carry decent speed onto the straight.

T8

T9:
Finally a corner the Porsche will take some trail braking :) Again several approaches here. Classical middle apex, somewhat double or single late apex - they all work and have their pros and cons. I just like to focus on exists in general - easier on the tire if you don't have to corner much while accelerating.

T9

T10-11:
Very interesting turns. You can clip the kerb on the left quite hard in a lot of cars opening up the long right a little more. Short initial, but not too harsh braking, you still have a lot of time to get rid of speed here. Very pronounced double apex approach, being tight early, then running wide where you will reach the minimum speed. Only make subtle corrections up to this point on brake/throttle depending if you enter too slow or too quick. But definitely be patient. Rather scrub speed with too much steering again. Slightly before the middle of the turn you'll be the widest and slowest from where the car will start to come back to the inside. This is your signal to go onto power and bring the rear around the 2nd half of the turn and clip a 2nd late apex. Be gentle with the throttle if you feel too much TC engagement or you have to counter-steer too much.

T10-11

T12-14
Similar to t1-3 you want to compromise speed at the right time here. If you go deep into 12, you won't have a good T13 and neither a good T14. The key is have enough time to make it across before braking for T13, which means you have to leave room on the exit of T12 - which again means go the f*** slower. The braking for 12 is tricky as it's downhill and the rear will get very light. Don't brake too hard to avoid pitch and balance issues. The slowest point in the section is before the entry of T13 (the left hander of the chicane). Stay tight through 13 as well to open up T14 where you will already build part of the speed you'll maintain through the last flat-out T15 and onto the straight. Remember that you spend a long time on that straight, so every additional kph will matter for a long time and thats why the exit of T14 is much more important than a fast T12.

Hope this helps you all and head over to Popometer.io to see how far off the ideal you are. Spoiler: You are also way off what you think you are doing - data always reveals the hard truth so only use it if you are ready to face yourself ;)

T12-14

Coach Dave Academy was the first setup service for ACC. A professionally organized team of engineers and drivers systematically create, maintain and update setups on a regular schedule - staying on top of physic changes, new discoveries and customer demands. 
From today, you will be able to review, compare and analyse their laps on Popometer with a new, separate subscription.

This is coming in handy for everyone who wants a one size fits all solution. CDA's setup subscription (10€/month) paired with their data more easily accessible through the new CDA Data subscription on Popometer (5€/month). Combined, you are all sorted for 15€ a month (cheaper with yearly sub). Period.

Once you subscribe, you will have access to all CDA related laps on Popometer. The data pack list will then be filtered for you by CDA Packages (you can remove the filter, if needed) and if you load one of your own laps, CDA reference times will be available from the comparison drop down. Of couse comparison is always best if you drive with the same setup, hence we highly recommend also getting the CDA Setup subscription.

As you know there are about 400 car/track combinations on ACC. Currently, there are BMW, Bentley and Ferrari laps already accumulated with more combos appearing every week as CDA works through updating all car's setups. 

Additionally to the data, all subscribers will be able to create or join a team to share laps with others, as well as receiving more laps storage.

All you need to do (if you haven't already) is to register, download the recorder and subscribe. If you have any trouble head over to our discord and we'll help. 

The BMW M4 GT3 - Snetterton Pack is now available for everyone, for free - have fun testing!

Plain and simple if you hit the new menu button on top, it will take you to a lengthy guide on how to use Popometer.io!

For new users it will show the general functionality, and for those already working with the tool it will give guidance on how to extract information from the data and not just seeing, but understanding the mistakes.

If you feel like anything is missing, make sure to let us know on Discord!

Today we published an update to our pricing.

Without membership the standard price will remain the same: 5.50€

However, with the PRO membership, a new cheaper standard price of 4.50€ will apply. Additionally you will be able to pre-charge your account with 4 different packages:

• 20€ - 5 Data Packs  - 4€ per pack
• 35€ - 10 Data Packs - 3.50€ per pack
• 60€ - 20 Data Packs - 3.00€ per pack
• 100€ - 50 Data Packs - 2.00€ per pack

You can activate the data packs after the purchase whenever you like. 
This is possible due to reduced payment fees with bulk purchases. We have also further increased the share creators keep of each data pack.

Find the new options at the bottom here, after you became a member.

Recentely LowFuelMotorsport added rFactor2 to their daily hosting.

While there's a fixed setup Renault Alpine series, there are also GTE, LMP or GT cars that certainly require some mechanic skills.

We reacted quickly and implemented rFactor2 to our structure.

Right now we can upload Setups, Replays and motec files. Our tool needs yet to be updated to support our own visualization and the track maps and driving line you are used to. We are working on changing this, so in the mean time we rely on motec data. A workbook can be found on the discord in #workbooks for the motec files to display correctly.

We are working on clearing the blanks in the data base for all possible rf2 track and car combos, but it might take some time to fill. Keep using the request function, so we know what to focus on!

Subscription

People using Popometer and recording many laps makes us very happy. However, we are simply running out of storage. This means we are making saving laps part of the subscription to be able to on our end subscribe to more storage. It will still be FREE to save up to 3 laps per car/track combo. The subscription is now available here.

The 5.00 € Pro subscription will allow you to save up to 10 laps per car/track combo. A future Ultimate subscription will allow even more laps to be saved.

Automatically we will be saving your 3 (or 10 respectively) fastest laps per combo. With the subscription you can select to save specific laps in your laps list. Then we will only overwrite the remaining slots with faster laps.

We are not going to charge without new features, though. We always want to bring more value when we go for your pocket (well, not want to but have to, let’s face it ;) ). That’s why we’ve been working to create the new Team/Group functionality.

Teams/Groups

Once you have become a subscriber, you will be able to create/join one team or group via the new “Teams” button in the menu. Once the team is created, you will find an invitation link on top of the teams page. Pass that on to your mates. Whoever clicks the link will appear as a request to the team owner, before being allowed access to the group’s laps.

Members of a group will now also see a share icon next to their laps in the laps list. Clicking that will share that lap immediately with your team. Your shared lap will automatically also count towards your 10 saved laps for that combo.

Once you are reviewing a lap of your own you will now also find shared laps of team members on the same track in the compare dropdown. Or you can go to your Team and click on the “laps” tab there to view a list of all shared laps within that team.

Expect the possibility to join multiple teams in the ultimate subscription. That’s still a while out, though!

Also the subscription is a needed revenue stream for the project. Our aim always is to make it viable for the creators to offer their setups and data here instead of elsewhere, which is why the creators get a large share of every purchase you make - that’s before tax and fees kick in. In light of the latter, we will hopefully soon add the option to charge your account with data pack activations up front in order to reduce the number of transactions, which should allow us to save fees and pass on the lowered cost of each transaction.

As always, let us know if you come across any issue, we hope the new feature comes in handy!

What is Popometer.io?

Popometer.io is a new telemetry and setup platform for Assetto Corsa Competizione (PC). Its aim is to help drivers improve by showing them exactly what they are doing differently than faster drivers. We will provide tutorials on how to read and interpret the data, so you understand how to spot the problem.

How does it work?

We provide a small recording tool that will run in the background. It will collect basic information while driving like speed and driver inputs. Just run the tool and forget about it. All laps driven with the tool running will appear in your profile and are ready to be reviewed after a small processing phase.

Creators: Comparing to Pro Drivers

We are working with many known professional drivers on ACC, who will create “Data Packs”.
A “Data Pack” always includes at least 1 Setup and a reference lap with that setup. Once you purchase a “Data Pack” you will be able to compare your laps against those of the professionals. Similar to other software like Motec you will see:

• Speed
• Steering
• Pedals
• Gears

Unlike other software you will be able to see exactly where the pros are placing the car on track, where they are starting to steer, brake and accelerate.

Platform

We are combining the best of other similar services out there:
Creators are free to create whatever data they want or how many setups will be included in a package.

For example they can create packages with fast and unstable setups for the competitive drivers, yet they can also provide setups catered towards drivability and endurance, or simply for less experienced drivers - ideally there is a setup available for everyone. The platform shares the bigger part of the revenue with the creators.

As opposed to motec, Popometer.io does not need any understanding of the software and only takes seconds to set up, while reducing information to those relevant for driving. Because we do not know what car/track combinations are most desired, you can request certain Data Packs and our creators will see which are asked for the most.

Features in the future

While the platform is rolled out to the public with the most basic function, we already have a roadmap ahead, including but not limited to:

• Intra-team comparison
• More pricing options
• More payment options
• Quick zoom into specific track sections
• TC/ABS readings
• Automated hints based on your driving patterns
• Notifications about requested Data Packs becoming available
• Coaching bookings
• Adding support for more games
• More languages
• General improvements to usability and visualization

Become a creator and earn

Right now we are already working with several experts on specific cars like the AMG, BMW, Porsche or Bentley. However, to cover all cars, if you are an expert on a certain vehicle (setup and driving wise), let us know and we’ll see if you can become a creator.

If you are very good with setups, but your driving isn’t the best of the best, feel free to reach out anyway and we’ll have a pro driver pick up your setup to create a Data Pack.

Support

Like with any software we expect to experience issues and come across various bugs. Please let us know on Discord under the Popometer section in #bug-n-issue-reports if you come across anything that needs addressing.

Discord link: https://discord.gg/r4cEZ3YeKb