Electronics:
TC1 on 3 and TC2 on 4 feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle a bit. Yet, don't force the TC too much.

Adjustments (you dont actually need any imo)

• reduce front bump stop range if braking into corners is an issue, or stiffen front spring.
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners, more front ARB could also help here
• The car most likely still takes more rake if you can handle it
• race setup might be able to run more toe still

Driving

• Basically all turns need careful trailing, but you can still push the higher speed corners - the car tolerates a lot of yaw and you need to floor throttle aggressively.
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate throttle [management], no coasting.
• the inside kerb in stowe helps rotate the car a bit
• max out revs just about
• The break is your friend here: The brake controls the speed, the pitch and how much weight you move forward. You will have a noticable impact on rotation with small brake inputs and while letting go off the brain during turn in. This is per design to keep at least some weight on the rear axle and not run max rake. Use the brake to pitch and force the car into the corner, it really generates a bit of front end grip. Check the data to see what I mean.

LFM:
Just reduce fuel load to 45/49L. Balance should become even more neutral. Adjust rear ride height in +-1mm to your liking (higher for oversteer, lower for more neutral behavior).