Audi R8 GT3 Evo II Setup and Data Pack for Misano - SAFE BUT FAST!

Setups are made with TC on in mind and muting most of the Audi specific, undesired traits. We can't change the position of the engine and some things will always remind you of the Audi, but I think this is surprisingly different to what you know!

Race drivers always seek for the duality of physics: He/she wants traction. And Rotation. A good front end and a good rear. The truth is: It's all always there, but what the driver is unhappy with is laptime and corner speed. Always. The Audi has one of the best front ends you can find and it has good electronics, too. But with the big V10 in the back, there's a decent amount of weight that is trying to make your life harder. It provides good traction in quali and allows to slide the rear just about as much as you want. But in the race it will work the rear tires quite a bit and controlling temperature there becomes crucial.

Here on Misano the main challenge having good traction, which usually leads to compromised cornering ability. The crucial bit is to find settings that still allow you to just about go flat out in turn 3, 6 and the 2nd to last corner. This is definitely possibly with the Q set and also for the beginning of the race. Later on the run it depends how you wear your tires, but the audi generally wears fronts and rears quite similarly, while also wearing the rear quite evenly across the surface. The aero map is rather insensitive so you shouldnt see much balance shift throughout a stint except for a few laps that you want to watch out until the front tires catch up with the wear. The other issue are the connected corners where you need to transition quickly and prevent the rear from swinging from one side to the other. This setup tries to mitigate that as good as possible - however, the speed of direction change and the speed of your steering input will determine if the car will take it or not.

Electronics:
TC1 on 1 or OFF for Q and also 1 for Race feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle (The sequence seems to be 1, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6 ... and is mostly down to how much oversteer the TC will tolerate). Ideally you will use the lowest TC you can handle, cause it really cuts a lot. Especially during slow exits TC on 1 will gain a lot of time. I would keep TC2 around 0-5 (it doesnt have that much impact if anything at all).
ABS on 2-3 seems predictable. On this patch lower ABS is better still. Try to stay on 2 and rather shift the brake bias. 

Adjustments

• The spring steps are rather large
• stiffen front spring if braking into the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you, yet its almost maxed out, so rather reduce rear ride height, or limit the front suspension travel with the bump stop range (NOTE: Stiffer front spring will cause issues on the lage kerbs. Rather use other means of adjustment!)
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners. 
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. Also consider raising the front as the downforce loss is minimal, which allows for subtle balance adjustments
• Raise the entire car a bit if you want more tolerance over kerbs, the car barely loses downforce with higher ride heights - however the weight travel will be more pronounced and also some top speed loss will occur
• The front tire temp will be higher than the rear, thats how stable the setup is designed. But thats also the better option as the rear will quickly suffer grip loss if you overdrive it and heat it up too much on top of the rear wear - however front and rear wear on the audi are generally close together

Driving

• into the hairpins you can be quite aggressive with the brake, the ABS will sort you out. Try a slightly diagonal braking line in the very last phase of braking for the hairpin (T2) but stay outside very long for T4. 
• Onto the throttle don't just floor it in the slower corners, give the car some time (say, half a second) and it will thank you
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate but progressive throttle, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners. early power is very crucial to work the diff and unload the front.
• Exits are always more important than entries

LFM:
The R25 setup carries fuel for 25m and will refuel enough to make it through the 45m race.

For a longer race run just add fuel and reduce rear ride height by a click. We cannot further improve the rear end part from higher rear rebound damping, so if the balance isn't working for you, then make the front end worse by giving it a stiffer spring or reducing front bump stop range. 

Enjoy and leave feedback!