Audi R8 GT3 Evo II Setup and Data Pack for Bathurst - Mount Panorama - SAFE BUT FAST!

Setups are made with TC on in mind and muting most of the Audi specific, undesired traits. We can't change the position of the engine and some things will always remind you of the Audi, but I think this is surprisingly different to what you know!

Race drivers always seek for the duality of physics: He/she wants traction. And Rotation. A good front end and a good rear. The truth is: It's all always there, but what the driver is unhappy with is laptime and corner speed. Always. The Audi has one of the best front ends you can find and it has good electronics, too. But with the big V10 in the back, there's a decent amount of weight that is trying to make your life harder. It provides good traction in quali and allows to slide the rear just about as much as you want. But in the race it will work the rear tires quite a bit and controlling temperature there becomes crucial.

Here on Bathurst we need top speed and stability down the mountain, while also keeping rotation in high speed turns and, as if that wasn't enough, traction out of the slower corners. So pretty much everything which means finding some magic compromise. This setup prioritizes stability, to make it difficult to lose the car down the mountain, a typical race ending scenario. Luckily the Audi top speed does not suffer from higher wing, as the engine revs out in 6th gear anyway. This setup is safe to lift the throttle without the rear going mad and it will tolerate the bumps and kerbs a little better than usual. Even if the rear steps out a bit down the hill it's not spiralling out of control immediately and gives you time to save it.

Electronics:
TC1 on 1 or OFF for Q and also 1 for Race feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle (The sequence seems to be 1, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6 ... and is mostly down to how much oversteer the TC will tolerate). Ideally you will use the lowest TC you can handle, cause it really cuts a lot - especially in the hairpins. I would keep TC2 around 0-5 (it doesnt have that much impact if anything at all).
ABS on 2-3 seems predictable. On this patch lower ABS is better still. Try to stay on 2 and rather shift the brake bias. We run rather high BB here as the rear tends to snap into the hairpins otherwise.

Adjustments

• The spring steps are rather large
• stiffen front spring if braking into the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you, yet its almost maxed out, so rather reduce rear ride height, or limit the front suspension travel with the bump stop range (NOTE: Stiffer front spring will cause issues on the lage kerbs. Rather use other means of adjustment!)
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners. 
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. Also consider raising the front as the downforce loss is minimal, which allows for subtle balance adjustments
• Raise the entire car a bit if you want more tolerance over kerbs, the car barely loses downforce with higher ride heights - however the weight travel will be more pronounced and also some top speed loss will occur
• The front tire temp will be higher than the rear, thats how stable the setup is designed. But thats also the better option as the rear will quickly suffer grip loss if you overdrive it and heat it up too much on top of the rear wear - however front and rear wear on the audi are generally close together

Driving

• into the hairpins here the ABS is more tricky to manage than on other tracks. It works in the last turn and t1, but its more tricky into the hairpin at the end of the downhill section. Using 1st gear hear helps a lot to rotate, but you have to fast with the short shift as 1st gear is just too short for the exit
• Onto the throttle don't just floor it in the slower corners, give the car some time (say, half a second) and it will thank you
• aim for late apexes pretty much everywhere, try to trail deep, immediate but progressive throttle, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners. early power is very crucial to work the diff and unload the front. Play with the throttle in the fast left handers up the hill, but don't lift completely - just lift enough to get the car to rotate and manage it there
• Exits are always more important than entries especially in T4 and the hairpin, as long straights or flat out sections follow afterwards

LFM:
The R setup carries fuel for 25m and will refuel enough to make it through the 45m race.

For a longer race run just add fuel and reduce rear ride height by a click. We cannot further improve the rear end apart from higher rear rebound damping, so if the balance isn't working for you, then make the front end worse by giving it a stiffer spring or reducing front bump stop range. Stiffer front ARB is also an option still and has less impact than going up with the springs. 

Enjoy and leave feedback!