Audi R8 GT3 Evo II Setup and Data Pack for Paul Ricard - SAFE BUT FAST!

Setups are made with TC on in mind and muting most of the Audi specific, undesired traits. We can't change the position of the engine and some things will always remind you of the Audi, but I think this is surprisingly different to what you know!

Race drivers always seek for the duality of physics: He/she wants traction. And Rotation. A good front end and a good rear. The truth is: It's all always there, but what the driver is unhappy with is laptime and corner speed. Always. The Audi has one of the best front ends you can find and it has good electronics, too. But with the big V10 in the back, there's a decent amount of weight that is trying to make your life harder. It provides good traction in quali and allows to slide the rear just about as much as you want. But in the race it will work the rear tires quite a bit and controlling temperature there becomes crucial.

Here on Paul Ricard we face medium and slow speed chicanes which require stable braking and reliable traction, but also stable downforce for the fast turns in the last sector. Despite the long straights top speed is not that important as we can't really change much on the setup for it without losing much more time in S1 and S3 and also it would be at the cost of corner exit speed, which means we'll not be able to make use of any lower drag until very late on the straight. Hence, we stay with max wing and a bit of rake. The main strength of the car is the fast right and the late braking abilities, while remaining fairly stable into the long corners of S3. You'll surely be able to surprise people into the braking.

Electronics:
TC1 on 1 or OFF for Q and also 1 for Race feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle (The sequence seems to be 1, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6 ... and is mostly down to how much oversteer the TC will tolerate). Ideally you will use the lowest TC you can handle, cause it really cuts a lot - especially in the hairpins. I would keep TC2 around 0-5 (it doesnt have that much impact if anything at all).
ABS on 2-3 seems predictable. On this patch lower ABS is better still. Try to stay on 2 and rather shift the brake bias. We run rather high BB here as the rear tends to snap into the hairpins otherwise.

Adjustments

• The spring steps are rather large
• stiffen front spring if braking into the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you, yet its almost maxed out, so rather reduce rear ride height, or limit the front suspension travel with the bump stop range (NOTE: Stiffer front spring will cause issues on the lage kerbs. Rather use other means of adjustment!)
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners. 
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. Also consider raising the front as the downforce loss is minimal, which allows for subtle balance adjustments
• Raise the entire car a bit if you want more tolerance over kerbs, the car barely loses downforce with higher ride heights - however the weight travel will be more pronounced and also some top speed loss will occur
• front and rear wear on the audi are generally close together, so balance changes over a stint aren't expected. For the full hour its still worth it to reduce a click of rear ride height, or two

Driving

• into the hairpins you can be quite aggressive with the brake, the ABS will sort you out. Try a slightly diagonal braking line into the long sweepers of the last sector, which will help with stability under heavy braking
• Onto the throttle don't just floor it in the slower corners, give the car some time (say, half a second) and it will thank you
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate but progressive throttle, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners. early power is very crucial to work the diff and unload the front.
• Exits are always more important than entries
• easy in the transitions of the chicanes, the car is very responsive and doesn't need fast steering inputs
• the fast right only needs a tiny tap on the the brake and then you manage the speed with the throttle immediately - the car has crazy amounts of downforce
• lap time wise there is a bit more than I did. We are losing time to the WR only in the last sector really where a lose setup without TC will help a lot, in the middle sector we are even quicker

LFM:
The R25 setup carries fuel for 25m and will refuel enough to make it through the 45m race.

For a longer race run just add fuel and reduce rear ride height by a click. We cannot further improve the rear end apart from higher rear rebound damping, so if the balance isn't working for you, then make the front end worse by giving it a stiffer spring or reducing front bump stop range. 

Enjoy and leave feedback!