The new Ferrari. 
Once you step into the car and do your first laps, you'll immediately have a feeling of a very high tech car. It feels prototypish - probably LMDH-ish. The car is responsive like crazy. Even if you throw it around the rear will stay planted (most of the time). The TC operates cleanly, it also does not use fuel, it has good balance in wear and tire temperatures as well as barely a balance shift from the tank emptying. This is going to be a serious competitor.

Here on Laguna it will have one of the highest corner and apex speeds. It lacks a bit of punch from the corners (BOP) - else it would be the outright fastest car in any scenario. Laguna has slightly lower grip than other tracks and you'll notice that. The ABS of the Ferrari is quickly overwhelmed and you need to trail the brake carefully.  Make sure to always go perfectly straight when applying the brake initially, else its easy to lock up. Especially into T3 (the first right hander) the rear likes to go. Traction is delicate and the turbo doesn't make things easier. Often you will get initial understeer and a snappy rear once the turbo kicks in. It's important to get a feeling for the delay between throttle application and power availability.

Electronics:
TC1 on 2 for Q and definitely 3 for the Race. I would keep TC2 low (if TC1 on 2) or off (if TC 1 on 3) for Q but on 1 for the race and only adjust TC2 over the course of a stint most likely.
ABS on 4-5 seems predictable, higher seems better in general as sometimes a lockup of the rear can cause the car to snap on entry - or you going straight entirely.

Adjustments (you dont actually need any imo)

• Generally you have to be rather stiff on Laguna because of the bumbs, banking and mainly the drop in the cork screw. This will retain ground clearance.
• The spring steps are rather small, so can be used for fine tuning. 
• stiffen front spring if braking into the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you. Reduce rear ride height for bigger impact
• To reduce response further you can increase the steer ratio still - it will also allow for more precision
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. Also consider raising the front as the downforce loss is minimal, which allows for subtle balance adjustments. Raising the entire car can make it more compliant over the kerbs at little aero disadvantages, but the car is tolerant at low ride heights already
• the combination of toe and camber is delicate now. Watch out for the outside of the tires cooling out - this will lead to little grip into the corners. Therefor lower cambers and positive toe can influence temperature development a lot

Driving

• into the hairpins you can be quite aggressive with the brake, the ABS will sort you out as long as you go straight. Try a slightly diagonal braking line in the very last phase of braking for T1. Very little braking input deep into the corner, the car is sensitive, but there's more grip loading the tire carefully
• Onto the throttle don't just floor it in the slower corners, give the car some time (say, half a second) and it will thank you
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate but progressive throttle, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners. early power is very crucial to work the diff and unload the front.

LFM:
Race setup is for LFM Sprint with 50L (The car only needs like 90L for the full hour!). Balance barely changes with fuel level. Adjust rear ride height +-1mm to your liking or change the roll bars for small adjustments in balance. With full tank add a click of front roll bar and/or reduce rear ride height by 1mm. A generally stiffer roll bar setting all around might make it more drivable. Yet to test!

Enjoy and leave feedback!