One of the best drives in ACC - probably.

Note: Negative toe might still work in the qualifying environment. But all my setups will for now utilize positive or only slightly negative toe as I expect it to be the more sustainable solution.

For now I'd say focus on driving. Not too much has changed as to how you drive the car. Of course the lap times are different (slower), how much grip you have (more or less - depends!) and how the car responds. You still want to trail, just more careful. But you do not want to slam the throttle anymore, the car needs some time - more gentle the slower the corner is. You can always increase the TC, but it will come at time losses.
Overall the car needs less steering as before and it's easy to turn too much. Maybe increasing steer ratio further can help to be precise.
Be careful on turn in. The tires likely need half a turn or more to build temperature on the surface and they are more snappy on entry when still cold. You can get them warm more equally by reducing camber and going for more positive toe. This will cost lap time in general, but might gain you time if the car is unrealiable on corner entries for you. Especially T1 it helps to really brake diagonally into the turn, as that helps to heat of the entire surface of the outside tire before actually turning. 
On throttle now the car will rotate due to the combination of lower rear camber and positive toe. It helps massively in to feed in throttle over half a second than slamming it. 

Adjustments
I suggest to stay away from it for now apart from making larger balance changes if this is tricky to drive for you: Stiffer front spring, stiffer front roll bar, less rake. One click at a time. 
The brake bias is tricky. If it's too far forward the front will suddenly regain grip and the rear snaps. If too far back the rears might lock. Higher ABS here if you cannot handle it, but likely at a time loss. Clean trailing will pay off.
It will take some time to understand the new relationships between toe, camber and tire pressures. 
Some drivers might like a car with less rake for better drivability. It does not seem to be too problematic to lower the wing in turn for 2-3mm lower rear ride height.

Tire pressures
Aim for 26.4 or more. Lower pressures might feel better in a slow corner, but its harder to hit the right slip. Go for 26.7-26.9 for solid support from the tire without surprises. Here its aimed to have the fronts at higher pressures than the rear - they need the support while the rear needs to come around on throttle and allow a bit more flex in the tire. This is all still early days - let's see how this develops over time.


Lap times
Q fuel: 11L
LFM: 55L 1:30.5
Race: just about 1:30s could be possible with full tank. Balance will become more neutral even - increase rear ride height if too understeery for you!