Race Robot.

The new Ferrari. 
Once you step into the car and do your first laps, you'll immediately have a feeling of a very high tech car. It feels prototypish - probably LMDH-ish. The car is responsive like crazy. Even if you throw it around the rear will stay planted (most of the time). The TC operates cleanly, it also does not use fuel, it has good balance in wear and tire temperatures as well as barely a balance shift from the tank emptying. This is going to be a serious competitor.

Here on Nurburgring it is way too responsive out of the box and being precise poses a real challenge for the driver. I managed to tone down the disadvantages and keep the advantages alive. The car will come around quite brutally with the rear very late during the exit when the turbo charger kicks in fully. You'll see in the throttle trace that there is some fear and managing the small margin at the very end of the pedal is needed to keep the car planted. You can use different engine maps for a different throttle curve without any other total power delivery or consumption, but it won't be as responsive on throttle which you might want initially.

With fuel the car is much nicer than in quali trim and a lot more stable and predictable. 

Electronics:
TC1 on 4 for both Q and 5 for Race. I would keep TC2 low or off for Q but on 1 for the race and only adjust TC2 over the course of a stint most likely.
ABS on 3-4 seems predictable, higher seems better in general as sometimes a lockup of the rear can cause the car to snap on entry - or you going straight entirely.

Adjustments

• The spring steps are rather small, so can be used for fine tuning. If Q is too aggressive, increase front and decrease rear spring.
• stiffen front spring if braking into fast the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you. Reduce rear ride height for bigger impact
• To reduce response further you can also raise the front, but we're at the limit of losing downforce already
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. Raising the entire car can make it more compliant over the kerbs at moderate aero disadvantages, but the car is tolerant at low ride heights already
• the combination of toe and camber is delicate now. Watch out for the outside of the tires cooling out - this will lead to little grip into the corners. Therefor lower cambers and positive toe can influence temperature development a lot

Driving

• Brake straight for as long as you can manage or try a slightly diagonal braking line in the very last phase of braking for T1. Very little braking input deep into the corner, the car is sensitive, but there's more grip loading the tire carefully
• Onto the throttle don't just floor it in the slower corners, give the car some time (say, half a second) and it will thank you. Also don't do completely off throttle between 3 and 4
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate but progressive throttle, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners. early power is very crucial to work the diff and unload the front.

Qualifying

• Make sure to wait for Lap 3 and 4 to set your time, flying laps 1 and 2 are simply not fast, as the tire isn't ready yet.
  
  
• negative toe will be quicker into and through the corners, but its more difficult to keep the advantage on exit, as the car is more likely to trigger too much TC - so good clean inputs are needed to also extract the time

LFM
Race setup is for full hour with 89L. Balance barely changes with fuel level. Adjust rear ride height +-1mm to your liking or change the roll bars for small adjustments in balance. For LFM maybe worth raising the rear by a click, or adding rear spring stiffness.

Enjoy and leave feedback!

Wear
Tire wear after 8 steady laps around 1:54.6 with 89L for 1 hour:
- Graining might be resolvable with less pressure on the fronts, less brake duct still (currently 3 - please test)
- should result in 2.2 left on the front after 1h and just about 1.95mm on the rear.