Note: Negative toe might still work in the qualifying environment. But all my setups will for now utilize positive or only slightly negative toe as I expect it to be the more sustainable solution.

The new Merc (looks like the old, but had major updates to front suspension and aero map). It relies a lot on rake to extract performance, as rake will increase the front downforce quite drastically - in turn this makes the car a little pitch sensitive on entry, especially in the fast corners. It can fit almost any kerb and also has no issues driving through the grass without bottoming out as the rear usually sits very high. Torque wise its as good as ever: Endless, while not even needing a lot of fuel. It's somewhat of an inverted Porsche. Heavy engine in the front, fuel in the back, which of course is missing in Qualifying, so the balance there is harder to achieve than in race trim. However toe and camber together with the right spring and rear squat can get something useful out of it, even if not perfect. In the race its much more balanced and you are much less front limited as you were in the previous patch. Initially it over-rotated coming form the Q set and I had to help the rear a bit to remain in its place. Beware of overdriving. Even in 23C the tires go near 100C and there will be a rather sharp change of grip once you exceed it. Maybe increase pressures further and open the ducts fully (no more room here on the front!) to keep them lower. This also means over-driving can come very costly. Once the tire becomes too warm, it will be hard to recover. You will have to take out pace until the temp drops and then drive normal again.

Suzuka
Braking in Q is trickier than in race trim, due to the missing weight on the rear. You might actually experience shorter braking distances in race trim. The setup does not change much from Q to R, just that it becomes better to drive and needs less rake. However due to the soft rear spring it pitches quite a bit forward under braking, if you need more stability, you first want to increase both springs and if thats still not enough, add front roll bar most likely. Soft roll bars seem a lot better than stiff here.
Especially in the race it feels very balanced and despite the wear difference, it remained stable as far as I got into the stint. The race set definitely starts neutral (apart from the entry), I'm actually not sure which direction it will take over the race distance, you might have some influence here as a driver.
Suzuka is special with its many direction changes that require a planted rear and patient driver. Just let it roll a while and only make tiny speed andjustments in the esses. Despite the tricky surface of suzuka you likely won't get away with a completely soft setup here, so I went as hard as the car needs to be, but as soft as it can be.

Driving

• Shift early, like 7200-7400rpm max. Needs discipline to not rev too high
• Aim for late apexes and sometimes a shortshift might settle the car
• your brake is more than a means of deceleration, it also controls pitch and especially in R this will be key to managing rotation on corner entry (most prominent in T1)
• do not go off throttle completely in 130R - the mercedes is still prone to dying here
• on throttle the car will keep rotating, dont just floor it as that might exaggerate it - take a close look at my throttle traces.
• dont steer too much, progress into it, be ready to steer neutral on exits out of slow turns

Adjustments

• If too oversteery: Stiffer front spring, stiffer front roll bar, less rake. One click at a time.
• you might be able to drive lower brake bias still and the lower you can keep TC and ABS the better. 2 for both in Q and maybe TC 3 in the race should be more than enough
• higher preload can give more turn in stability, but will come with more nervous exits
• lowering front and adding rear camber might further stabilize the car (in race) 
• lowering the caster also gives more predictability
• Some drivers might like a car with less rake for better drivability. It does not seem to be too problematic to lower the wing in turn for 3-4mm lower rear ride height. Yet, I'd use other changes first

Tire pressures
Aim for 26.4 or more. Lower pressures might feel better in a slow corner, but its harder to hit the right slip. Go for 26.7-26.9 for solid support from the tire without surprises. Here its aimed to have the fronts at higher pressures than the rear - they need the support while the rear needs to come around on throttle and allow a bit more flex in the tire. 

Lap times
Q fuel: 14L
R: 104L