The better BMW.

**pressures are for hotlap, lower a bit for actual Q

Electronics:
TC1 on 3 actually allows some slides without cutting too much - it still accelerates. TC5 if you like it more stable.

Adjustments (you dont actually need any imo)

• reduce front bump stop range if braking into corners is an issue, or stiffen front spring.
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners, more rear bs range (do on click at a time max, it will affect eau rouge)
• The car most likely still takes more rake if you can handle it
• race setup might be able to run more toe still

Driving

• Basically all turns need careful trailing, but you can still push the higher speed corners for some reason and pitch the front into the ground into pouhon, the rear will stay controllable
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate throttle [+management once the turbo spools up], little to no coasting.
• noname is tricky, but its advantageous if the rear steps out on entry - then you can floor it before the apex in 2nd
• shift at 153, 185, 220, 252
• The break is your friend here: The brake controls the speed, the pitch and how much weight you move forward. You will have a noticable impact on rotation with small brake inputs and while letting go off the brake during turn in. This is per design to keep at least some weight on the rear axle and not run max rake. Use the brake to pitch and force the car into the corner, it really generates a bit of front end grip. Check the data to see what I mean.

LFM:
Just reduce fuel load to 45/49L. Balance should become even more neutral. Adjust rear ride height in +-1mm to your liking (higher for oversteer, lower for more neutral behavior).