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Porsche 992 GT3 R
Watkins Glen
- 23 °C
- 27 °C
Stable Porsche 992 GT3 R Setup for Watkins Glen - Assetto Corsa Competizione.
Note: Negative toe might still work in the qualifying environment. But all my setups will for now utilize positive or only slightly negative toe as I expect it to be the more sustainable solution.
Updated to 1.9.7
The Porsche just feels great with a balanced race setup. Ever so slightly willing to rotate on entry, stable in the middle off throttle and again willing to just mildly rotate on exit (apart from high speed, where its pushing a bit). It might be best simulation ACC has to offer. Everything feels really round and smooth, no excessive behavior in any situation.
Overall the new Porsche needs less steering as before and it's easy to turn too much. The high steer ratio helps to be precise.
Be careful on turn in. The tires likely need half a turn or more to build temperature on the surface and they are more snappy on entry when still cold. You can get them warm more equally by reducing camber and going for more positive toe. This will cost lap time in general, but might gain you time if the car is unrealiable on corner entries for you. While the car remains the crazy rotation off throttle, the center of that rotation seems far more in the center of the car now, than around the tip of the nose, which makes it rotate more like a mid engine car. The rear doesn't feel quite as exposed on corner entry, and you get actually turn into the direction you want to go, instead of controlling a permanent slide. In Q the weight balance is still very far to the rear, hard to do anything about it. I tamed it as much as I could and again no negative toe needed here for (most of the) lap time.
Watkins
One of the few tracks thats actually different in any regard. While there are slow corners, they all come with either going up or downhill, or having banking to the inside or outside - or even changing banking throughout the turn. The same goes for the plenty of high speed corners that require a lot of downforce. Due to the shape and nature of these corners, the car will change behavior in a corner several times and you just have to have a setup that can somewhat cope with it. Usually that means going soft. Yet, soft means the car becomes pitch sensitive. So... meh. Finding a useful compromise here I found really tricky, but I hope to have come up with something eventually. There was a bit more time in it, but its really tricky to put it all together here. I saw no benefit whatsoever in going lower wing, so here we are with max wing once more!
Driving
- Aim for late apexes and dont shy away from a short shift or staying in the higher gear option in the first place
- your brake is more than a means of deceleration, it also controls pitch and especially in Q this will be key to managing rotation on corner entry - most pronounced in in T1, the chicane, but also the entire middle sector really. It generally needs careful trailing to not lock the front tires. And if they unlock you have a sudden regain of grip that sets the rear lose. So be careful :)
- on throttle the car will keep rotating, dont just floor it as that might exaggerate it - take a close look at my throttle traces. TC3 in Q seems fine, TC2 might be faster, but error rate will increase. For the race start with 3 and you'll like go up to 4 after a few laps already.
- dont steer too much, progress into it
- The chicane allows to cut a lot on the right side, which opens up everything afterwards. Don't be afraid of the bounce, and also the car won't spin off throttle.
Adjustments
- If too oversteery: Stiffer front spring (this will lead to more oversteer later in the stint, try the other options first), stiffer front roll bar, less rake. One click at a time.
- The brake bias is tricky. If it's too far forward the front will suddenly regain grip and the rear snaps. If too far back the rears might lock. Higher ABS here if you cannot handle it, but likely at a time loss. Clean trailing will pay off.
- higher preload can give more turn in stability, but will come with more nervous exits
- lowering front and adding rear camber might further stabilize the car (in race)
- lowering the caster also gives more predictability
- Some drivers might like a car with less rake for better drivability. It does not seem to be too problematic to lower the wing in turn for 2-3mm lower rear ride height.
- rear tire wear remains an issue. Lower camber all around the car might help paired with more positive rear toe - but its just something you can't fully control. Adding more understeer with higher ARB or a lower rear ride height will be more impactful
Tire pressures
Aim for 27.0 entering the fast corners for solid support from the tire without surprises. You can play with the fronts at lower pressures, so they develop some temperature. Yet we have a lot of high load corners here and a stiff tire feels much more communicative than a soft one. Also i deliberately chose higher rear pressures to keep the temps ever so slightly lower.
Lap times
Q fuel: 15L (This is safe to use for the sprint races adding the necessary fuel of 48L - maybe add 1 click of rear ride height)
R: 106L (including formation lap)
LFM: For the shorter LFM races you'll likely be best advised with the Q set and a bit of fuel, less front pressures, but without any other changes - if anything increase rear ride height by a click.
In this package you will find
- Qualifying1:43.097
Porsche 992 GT3 R
Watkins Glen
- 23 °C
- 27 °C
- Replay File
- Race1:44.212
Hi! I very much appreciate your setups, I bought the whole data pack and am driving all across the tracks not wasting time on tweaking the car - just adjust pressures and fuel and I am good to do a decent times.
I have one general question though - how to adjust the setups for the wet race? Thanks in advance!
Hey, thanks!
Generally in wet conditions you'd see how the balance is different from dry (more oversteer or more understeer) and then try to adapt accordingly. Most likely the car will be more oversteery, and you could reduce rear ride height further as a first measure. Overall you would also try to make the car softer unless that makes the balance worse. Positive rear toe is also useful for traction in the wet, but we already have that on the setup in most cases. Apart from that: check temperatures of the tires for your specific weather and perhaps you need to adjust the brake ducts to either keep the tires warmer or colder. Brake bias might also need to shift forward, and also ABS1 tends to be more effective in the wet, but then the bias really needs to more forward a bit to not lock the rears all the time. theres no other "wet setup magic" unfortunately :)