Summary:

The Lamborghini was the winning car in this year's SRO esports GTWC Bathurst 12hrs and I wanted to find out why.  Turns out in this BoP the car is fast and stable.  Who could ask for more? Contrary to my expectation the Lambo can take a lot of bumps without bottoming out, despite being one of the heaviest cars.  It isn't aerodynamically affected much at all by pitch changes and is incredibly stable when fully braking.  It's fast on Conrod Strait, matching the top speed of all the fastest cars, but it feels like it struggles for power on the climb up the hill after T2 compared to the Mercedes.  The car inspires confidence to a fault.  Incredibly good over the mountain, but sometimes the rear will have one bad bounce and it will put you in the wall.  Difficult to predict without just putting in a lot of laps and placing the car in the right spots every lap. The default aggressive setup was a really good base, but had some key flaws.  I did my best with this setup to eliminate most of those problems.

Electronics:

TC 2 or 3 should do the trick.  I use 3 when warming up, at full fuel, or if I'm not feeling very confident in the car just yet.  Allows you to just slam the throttle to full in most cases and let the TC do most the work.  2 feels faster and allows for a bit more play on throttle.  1 was a bit too slidey, and 4/5 felt good in low grip or wet settings

ABS 2-4 seemed like the golden range.  2 feels the fastest, but it can be a bit on-edge over skyline.  If braking is a problem I would increase ABS, then afterwards increase brake bias if it's still an issue.

Adjustments:

Fundementally I found the Lambo performs much better with very high spring rates.  Especially on the rear.  During some fast cornering the rear would feel like it washes away under max load, especially in the 3rd gear ranges of speed.  High spring rates and roll bars ballance weight a bit more evenly while also making the car a bit more responsive to driver inputs to save slides.  However the most important reason for the higher spring rates is because of how the car takes the inside curb at Turn 10 (McPhilly Park).  While the curb should be avoided, the car shouldn't kill you if you accidentally turn in a bit too early.  When the curb ends there is a nasty drop that will bounce the car.  With a soft rear, like that in the default setup,  the rear bottomed out and bounced, putting me in the wall with no way to save it.  Now it glides over it, not very gracefully, but it doesn't upset the car and put it in a spin unless you're applying too much steering input.  I increased front spring rates as well to maintain general handling charractistics.

• Too much oversteer over fast mountain section
  • Lowering rear spring rates by 1 or 2 ticks, not more due to T10 curb.  Higher bump stop ranges in the rear do the same thing while offering finer adjustments.
  • More wing is an option, but will be more difficult to hit benchmark 280kph top speed on strait.
  • Lower rear ride height will also help, but not much.
  • increasing rear toe will help if the rear feels a bit too wiggly
• Low speed corners
  • Adjusting antiroll bars felt like enough to get a good ballance.  I personally didn't like the feel of lower front ARB, so I mostly played with the rear.
    
    • Higher rear ARB for more rotation and high speed weight transfer.
    • Lower rear ARB for more mechanical grip, especially focussing on exit of T4 (the Cutting) and T15 (the Chase).
      • Lower rear spring rates had a similar effect here too
• More oversteer (not necessary in my opinion)
  • Higher rear ride height or rear bumpstop rate will do the trick
  • can try lowering wing to 5, but I felt the car was little too risky over skyline and the esses.  Maybe ok for a qualifying setup
• Diff Preload
  • Change to preference: Lower for more rotation at speed and corner entry and less power oversteer on corner exit.  Increase for stiffer, more locked rear feel at the expense of needing more throttle discipline.  I found I liked it right in the middle, but it comes down to personal preference and driving style

Driving:

Every setup I make with the goal of taking most of the mountain flat out.  T4 (The Cutting) all the way until Skyline is possible at full throttle in fast/optimal conditions with only a small half-lift for T10 at McPhilly park.  Turn 9 can be a bit of challenge, and I usually lift to about 80% throttle here in race conditions for added peace of mind to avoid the outside walls.

• Generally car is predictable through most corners.  ABS and TC will sort you out.  Generally be carefull of rear sliding out on corner exit.
• "Most important" corners according to fundementals are T1 and T14 (Forest Elbow) since they have the longest straits following them focus on maximizing exits here before anything else.  Slow in, Fast out! Hug the apex!
  • For Forest Elbow try as much as possible to stay right while braking before the corner.  Compromise the previous corner to hug the right wall while braking in a strait line to slow the car for the hairpin. Remember that the speed you exit with is carried for the whole Conrod Strait.  1st gear helps it rotate and hug the inside wall.  
• Advanced Technique: The extra magic lap time comes from the "NO BRAKES" part of the Title of this data pack.  The car is capable of going through skyline with nothing more than a lift of throttle.  However this requires very fine, minimal steering inputs and getting very close to the inside wall to keep a very strait brake zone on the downhill section.  It is key to not be mid-track as there the bumps over the crest upset the car a bit more and using more than 20 degrees of steering angle to correct to the right will spin the car once the front settles again.  Going that fast over the crest is an exercise in car control and managing braking with steering inputs.  Have faith that the car has the braking power to slow down.  After mastering the rest of the circuit you can try braking less and less before skyline to test how deep you can go.
  • During races I tone it down and brake a little bit before the corner, especially after tires wear down.  The confidence that comes with mastering the no-brake entry usually makes it a much easier section once you bring the pace back down and you will always have an edge on the competition on this part of the track.

LFM:

Fuel is set up how I like it for the 45min races.  Need about 90-92L including brake warming for the formation lap 48L start, 43L refuel, should be more than enough.  23 laps @~3.8L/lap.

Be mindful of areo wash over the mountain when following closely, need extra lift in fast corners.  Brake a little earlier over skyline to account for constantine affect and potential errors on those first 2 or 3 laps while you get up to speed.

Ideally the car should be able to hit low 2:01's for the whole race on this fuel in almost any conditions.  Sub 2:01's on good laps with fresh tires or slipstream.  Race lap here is done on full 120L fuel

UPDATE: 12/12/22
updated Race setup