General:
The Aston heavily relies on a lot of rake to generate downforce and to get the rear to rotate. Additionally it has similar suspension issues as the Ferrari and simply cannot dissipate the energy properly, which makes a few parts on any track quite tricky. However, I seem to have found a middle ground where the front end will occasionally bite and the car will behave predictably around the lap. The car does not need a lot of steering input, the chances that you overdrive the front are very high. Race trim should be better for the Aston than Quali in general. Tire wear is not very much and it will pay off the longer the stint goes. Let me know how you like it!

Electronics:
TC1 on 1-2 is enough, but TC1 on 0 might be faster. Any TC cut really hurts but even TC on 1 allows quite a bit of slip before engaging.
ABS should be on 3 at least - rather be safe than sorry! ABS 2 works as well but only with higher BB. 
Changing BB can make sense. Lower - like 59.6% - helps into the tight corners, but higher, until about 61% will help slow the car down in the hard braking zones, especially T1.

Zandvoort:
It's a flowy track and surprisingly the Aston has very little ground clearance problems here, which actually makes it a decent drive. I had to go quite aggressive on the ride heights and toes to keep it rotating in all scenarios at the cost of the car being pretty responsive at turn in. However, you can really rely on the ABS here to sort you out and if not, increase the BB a click or two. Generally aim for late apexes as the turbo once more needs us to go full power early to eventually have power at some point during the exit. In the chicane the correct amount throwing the car from right to left will help rotate the car much faster here and for the last corner just brake before the bump or at least not full on over the bump to prevent bottoming out. Other than that tight tracks require using all thats there as the time to be found by going to the edge of track limits is quite large. 

Adjustments:

• reduce front bump stop range if braking into corners is an issue, or stiffen front spring. This will also help with bottoming but will ultimately be a little slower
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners, more front ARB could also help here (yet it will make slow corners too understeery imo)
• race setup might be able to run more negative rear toe still. I find it balanced currently, but I'm sure it would be faster maxing this setting out. Just gets quite edgy to drive and more error prone
• There is a direct trade off between rotation and traction. If you add rake, you will lose traction. If you increase rear spring stiffness, you will lose traction. You always will have to counter any adjustments with another adjustment elsewhere.

Driving:

• Basically all turns need careful trailing, but you can still push the higher speed corners - the car tolerates a lot of yaw (if you can get it to rotate, mainly using the brake)
• The initial steering input and response is very important to get right as the car will gravitate towards understeer mid turn
• The earlier you can apply throttle the better, in several corners the car is on the verge of producing power so hit power before you actually need it - and mean it!
• the turbo takes some time to spin up, but when it does you have a lot of power available. This makes the throttle pedal non linear and gives quite some delay with actual engine output. You need to predict this and plan it into the driving. I.e. quite early throttle for the power to be there on exit
• bumps are tough on the car, raise ride height if unbearable (2mm rear for every 1mm front, if rear tops out, reduce wing), but the bottoming should be limited here
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate throttle [+management], no coasting
• shifting at 7000-7100 here pretty much. Stay close to the window.
• it can happen that if your minimum speed becomes too slow the chosen gear stops working for too low rpm. Try to stick to the higher gear and keep the speed up than being forced to shift down. Though, first gear helps with entry rotation. Depending on the fidelity of your right foot you can accelerate in first. If not, shortshift to 2nd.
• Make sure to attack the kerb in the middle sector's right kink, the car can take it and immediate full power to keep the rear going!

LFM:
The race setup is dialed in for medium fuel (60l). For full tank lower rear ride height in 1mm steps to your liking. Other options are to reduce rear rollbar, or increasing front, or simply reducing the negative toe on the rear and go closer or directly towards positive toe.