No need for edgy "meta" setup.

General:
Race drivers always seek for the duality of physics: He/she wants traction. And Rotation. A good front end and a good rear. The truth is: It's all always there, but what the driver is unhappy with is laptime and corner speed. Always. The Honda has the rotation willingness of a mid engine car, paired with the traction of the Porsche. Now that is also has an engine, it is remarkable quick. Even with the nose low to the ground it will hardly hit a bump (I guess they forgot the hitbox like they did on the porsche). If the car has a weakness it's the front end being a tiny bit unwilling in slow speed scenarios and in some corner exit phases in mid to high speed turns - however, this can be adressed by trading off a bit of stability elsewhere, but certainly needs a direct drive wheel to handle.

Electronics:
TC1 on 6-7 for Q and for the Race feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle. I would keep TC2 low or off.
ABS on 4-5 seems predictable.

Adjustments (you dont actually need any imo)

• The spring steps are quite small and hence allow you to make balance changes with them, however I would first play with the roll bars for tiny adjustments, as the front has very low weight and even small spring changes there will have its impact.
• the front bump stop stiffness is very impactful. If you are scared of the front increase front bump stop stiffness and just reduce the range a tiny bit. I would use the spring rather for mechanical balance changes in the slower speed turns
• you may try to reduce negative toe if the car is too twitchy for you, but I fear it will come with a lot of understeer on throttle. You might be able to counter it somewhat with lower rear camber, but its not fastest way I believe.
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners. however braking distance and turn in behavior really is best below 50%. It's already fairly save, you can go much lower still
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. From Q to max fuel load I would think 2-3mm is more than enough to adjust (more fuel -> rear lower!)
• For lower rear tire temp you will have to shift the balance further or increase rear ducts (race set still has room to go higher). Lower rear ride height, higher front, stiffer front spring, etc. 

Driving

• into the corners you can be quite aggressive with the brake, the ABS will sort you out. 
• Onto the throttle just floor it in the slower corners, but give the car some time in t2-t4 to try and not trigger too much TC
• The car is very good on kerbs, don't fear them!
• Giving the car a throttle kick can help set the rear into a nice steady rotation that you can then maintain with the throttle output without needing to floor it
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate throttle as the turbo needs a moment to get going, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners.
• In the chicanes be gentle with the weight transfer as the rear will need a moment to deal with the direction change and try to live with minimal corrections on throttle and brake to stay on line. 
• the wants to be thrown into the corners a bit and worked with the brake ever so slightly to get it to rotate more
• even in the lower gears you need to go near the rev limiter, as thats where the power is, first gear is only needed in T1 and maybe for a short time in T3, but engage more TC. If you are too aggressive or cant quite find the right spot, better use 2nd.
• Schumacher S can be just about flat, but with a really tiny lift you'll be fine in 99% of cases. Just be back on throttle if you cant avoid the inside kerb
• T4 kerb is also perfectly fine for the car
• In the fast chicane once the nose is pointed into the corner you can really slam the throttle. This will be the fastest exit speeds of any car except maybe the Porsche. As opposed to the Ferrari, the Honda can take the high kerbs as picture below
  
  
• 

LFM:
Fuel already set up. For alonger race increase fuel and lower the rear by 1-2mm. Maybe also go down with the front by one click as it will come back up by the end of the stint and might cause understeer depending on tire wear balance. Going less extreme with the rear toe will help stabilize the car further.