General:
The Aston heavily relies on a lot of rake to generate downforce and to get the rear to rotate. Sadly, this does not work for Bathurst, as the drag becomes unbearable on all the straights. Without the rake its tricky to get the car to work and it will always remain a compromise. Additionally it has similar suspension issues as the Ferrari and simply cannot dissipate the energy properly, which requires higher ride heights. However, I seem to have found a middle ground where the front end will occasionally bite and the whole uphill part can be taken almost flat out, you need to be very precise with the line and steering though, hence the high steer ratio. The car does not need a lot of steering input, the chances that you overdrive the front are very high. Let me know how you like it!

Electronics:
TC1 on 1 is enough, but TC1 on 0 will be faster. Any TC cut really hurts a lot on this track with long straights after several corners.
ABS should be on 2 at least - rather be safe than sorry in the hairpin! 
Changing BB can make sense. Lower, like 62.4%, helps into the tight corners, but higher, until about 63% will help slow the car down after the long straight.

Adjustments

• reduce front bump stop range if braking into corners is an issue, or stiffen front spring.
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners, more front ARB could also help here (yet it will make slow corners too understeery imo)
• The car most likely still takes more rake if you can handle it (but for Q you rather want weight on the rear)
• race setup might be able to run more negative rear toe still. I find it balanced currently, but I'm sure it would be faster maxing this setting out. Just gets quite edgy to drive and more error prone
• There is a direct trade off between rotation and traction. If you add rake, you will lose traction. If you increase rear spring stiffness, you will lose traction. You always will have to counter any adjustments with another adjustment elsewhere.

Adjustments 2

• if you have trouble over the mountain: Add rear ride height and wing. It will cost you straight line speed, but ultimately if you keep crashing there's no point in a fast straight! Every click of wing goes with 2-3mm more rear ride height.

Driving

• Basically all turns need careful trailing, but you can still push the higher speed corners - the car tolerates a lot of yaw (if you can get it to rotate)
• The initial steering input and response is very important to get right as the car will gravitate towards understeer mid turn
• The earlier you can apply throttle the better, in several corners the car is on the verge of producing power
• the turbo takes some time to spin up, but when it does you have a lot of power available. This makes the throttle pedal non linear and gives quite some delay with actual engine output. You need to predict this and plan it into the driving. I.e. quite early throttle for the power to be there on exit
• bumps are tough on the car, raise ride height if unbearable (2mm rear for every 1mm front, if rear tops out, reduce wing)
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate throttle [+management], no coasting
• shifting at 7200-7250 rpm
• it can happen that if your minimum speed becomes too slow the chosen gear stops working for too low rpm. This can happen in the last corner, as well as in the 2nd corner. Try to stick to the higher gear and keep the speed up than being forced to shift down.

LFM:
Just reduce fuel load to 45/49L. Balance should become even more neutral. Adjust rear ride height in +-1mm to your liking (higher for oversteer, lower for more neutral behavior).