General:
The Aston heavily relies on a lot of rake to generate downforce and to get the rear to rotate. Additionally it has similar suspension issues as the Ferrari and simply cannot dissipate the energy properly, which makes a few parts on any track quite tricky. Here in Spa the Aston strength is its top speed and the setup tries to make use of that. The middle sector is a bit more tricky, but ultimately rather low wing is the fastest compromise. You'll have it easy passing other cars, and will be difficult to be passed yourself. The car does not need a lot of steering input, the chances that you overdrive the front are very high. Race trim should be better for the Aston than Quali in general. Tire wear is not very much and it will pay off the longer the stint goes. Let me know how you like it!

Electronics:
TC1 on 1-2 is enough, but TC1 on 0 might be faster. Any TC cut really hurts a lot on this track with long straights after several corners.
ABS should be on 2 at least - rather be safe than sorry in the hairpins
Changing BB can make sense. Lower, like 61.4%, helps into the tight corners, but higher, until about 63% will help slow the car down in the hard braking zones.

Adjustments

• reduce front bump stop range if braking into corners is an issue, or stiffen front spring. This will also help with bottoming but will ultimately be a little slower
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners, more front ARB could also help here (yet it will make slow corners too understeery imo)
• you might be able to run more negative rear toe still. I find it balanced currently. Just gets quite edgy to drive and more error prone with more aggressive toe settings
• There is a direct trade off between rotation and traction. If you add rake, you will lose traction. If you increase rear spring stiffness, you will lose traction. You always will have to counter any adjustments with another adjustment elsewhere.

Driving

• Basically all turns need careful trailing, but you can still push the higher speed corners - the car tolerates a lot of yaw (if you can get it to rotate), yet less the lower the wing sits
• The initial steering input and response is very important to get right as the car will gravitate towards understeer mid turn
• The earlier you can apply throttle the better, in several corners the car is on the verge of producing power
• the turbo takes some time to spin up, but when it does you have a lot of power available. This makes the throttle pedal non linear and gives quite some delay with actual engine output. You need to predict this and plan it into the driving. I.e. quite early throttle for the power to be there on exit
• bumps are tough on the car, raise ride height if unbearable (2mm rear for every 1mm front, if rear tops out, reduce wing)
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate throttle [+management], no coasting
• shifting between 7000-7150 here pretty much
• it can happen that if your minimum speed becomes too slow the chosen gear stops working for too low rpm. Try to stick to the higher gear and keep the speed up than being forced to shift down.

LFM:
The setup is dialed in for full fuel. For half tank increase rear ride height in 1mm steps to your liking. Other options are to increase rear rollbar, or decreasing front, or simply increasing (more negative) the negative toe on the rear