First and foremost, I want to clarify that this setup is made for my driving style. You might find it difficult to adapt to. That's why we'll offer some suggested adjustments to best suit your driving style.

VE: - 100% for Endurance
      - adjust according to the duration of your race (20/30 min race for example)

Fuel Ratio: 0,83

Onboard TC:   5 (you can put 5)
TC Power Cut: 7 
TC Slip Angle: 7 (you can put between 2 and 7)

HotLap/Qualifying lap adjustement:

- Brake Bias: increase the BB if you lose rear traction under braking zone => 48-52 or 48,5-51,5 or more if you need more
- Front Camber: decrease near -2,2 if you want more grip lateral but you'll lose responsiveness on the front axle or don't touch
- Rear Camber: decrease near to -1,6 if you want more grip lateral and more turning or increase near to -1,0 if you want more stable or don't touch
- Front Toe-in: decrease to -0,12 if you want more turning but it's a little bit more tricky (it depends on the feeling of player)
- Rear Toe: decrease near to 0,19 if you want more turning or don't touch
- Front Antiroll Bar: increase 1 click if you want more stable OR don't touch
- Rear Antiroll Bar: don't touch
- Rear Ride Height: decrease 1 click if you want more stable OR increase 1 click if you want more turning or don't touch
- Rear Wing: increase 1 click if you want more stable but you'll lose so much speed on the straight line 
- Front Brake Ducts Blanking: it depends on the temperature
- Rear Brake Ducts Blanking: it depends on the temperature

Race adjustement (advice): Adjust based on race duration. For 15 minutes, you can keep the qualifying setup. For endurance with a 1h/1h10 stint, opt for a slower setting for pure performance but consistent over the duration of the stint.

- Brake Bias: increase the BB if you lose rear traction under braking zone => 48-52 or 48,5-51,5 or more if you need more
- Front Camber: decrease near -2,0 if you want more grip lateral but you'll lose responsiveness on the front axle or don't touch
- Rear Camber: decrease near to -1,4 if you want more grip lateral and more turning or increase near to -1,0 if you want more stable or don't touch
- Front Toe-in: decrease to -0,06 if you want more turning but it's a little bit more tricky (it depends on the feeling of player)
- Rear Toe: decrease near to 0,19 if you want more turning or increase near to 0,31 if you want more stable or don't touch
- Front Antiroll Bar: increase 1 click if you want more stable OR don't touch
- Rear Antiroll Bar: don't touch
- Rear Ride Height: decrease 1 click if you want more stable OR increase 1 click if you want more turning or don't touch
- Rear Wing: increase 1 click if you want more stable but you'll lose so much speed on the straight line 
- Front Brake Ducts Blanking: it depends on the temperature
- Rear Brake Ducts Blanking: it depends on the temperature

My best lap with this setup: 1:43.053 (on a mega lap, there is the possibility of doing 42.9 high, so you can improve so much my time)
Best lap with 100% full push 10 laps: 1:43.786 (on a mega lap, there is the possibility of doing 43.6 high, so you can improve so much my time)

Warning: The wear is very balanced on this Aston. Its main problem is the overheating of the front tires. Unfortunately, the current tire model doesn't really solve this issue. You can increase the tire pressure by a maximum of 2 clicks but the car then becomes very unpleasant to drive.

Second warning: At Portimão, you can take turn 4 flat out, but it's extremely risky. It's better to keep the throttle around 80-85%; otherwise, at the apex, the steering angle can cause a very sudden loss of aerodynamics. Without the correct entry angle, a spin is inevitable.

Good Luck and Have Fun.

YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@kelicful3729
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Hardwares:
Base: Simagic Alpha Evo 18nM
Roue/Wheel: Simagic Formula Xtreme FX
Pédalier/Pedals: Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3