Audi R8 GT3 EVO II - Stable Setup - Nordschleife

Audi R8 GT3 Evo II Setup and Data Pack for the Nordschleife

Updated to V1.10: You can lower the rear further for the race if the balance isn't quite right for you. Just be gentle with the steering and in transitions to keep the rear in check. It's just a flaw of the car you can't quite rule out with the setup.

Race drivers always seek for the duality of physics: He/she wants traction. And Rotation. A good front end and a good rear. The truth is: It's all always there, but what the driver is unhappy with is laptime and corner speed. Always. The Audi has one of the best front ends you can find and it has good electronics, too. But with the big V10 in the back, there's a decent amount of weight that is trying to make your life harder. It provides good traction in quali and allows to slide the rear just about as much as you want. But in the race it will work the rear tires quite a bit and controlling temperature there becomes crucial.

Nordschleife:
The track of all tracks. It's a tricky one for any car, due to its huge variety of corners. You want something that can cope with fast turns as well as very slow, banked or whatever type of corner. We need something neutral that works in all possible turns. As always I tried to make the car predictable in all situations and not show excessive over or understeer. Understeer a driver can manage just by reducing speed, but sudden oversteer is a killer on this track. This setup should not have sudden snaps or similar. There might still be tricky places you can work around by modulating the brake or just going neutral in the steering. Beware of bumps in the Hatzenbach chicanes in Sector 1 and try to go almost straight in the middle of these when changing direction across the crest right between the two turns - this should give the car enough time to settle before commiting to the next turn. More rear bumpstop range generally helps here, but it comes at the cost of high speed understeer. Feel free to do further adjustments like those suggested below to your liking. But also make sure to get a few laps in before. Some things on this track can hardly be addressed with setup.

Electronics:
TC1 on 1 or OFF for Q and same for the Race feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle (The sequence seems to be 1, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6 ... and is mostly down to how much oversteer the TC will tolerate). Ideally you will use the lowest TC you can handle, cause it really cuts a lot. Especially in the slow corners TC on 1 will gain a lot of time. TC2 is interesting, play around with it. I settled for 6.
ABS on 2-3 seems predictable.

Adjustments

• The spring steps are rather large
• stiffen front spring if braking into the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you, yet its almost maxed out, so rather reduce rear ride height, or even lift the front
• add rear +toe for a bit more stability
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners. 
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps.
• Raise the entire car a bit if you want more tolerance over kerbs, the car barely loses downforce with higher ride heights - however the weight travel will be more pronounced
• For lower rear tire temp you will have to shift the balance further. Lower rear ride height, higher front, stiffer front spring, etc. But its not really an issue here and we have room on the brake ducts

For full tank reduce rear ride height by another click, potentially add more front anti roll bar.

Enjoy and leave feedback!