Audi R8 GT3 Evo II Setup and Data Pack for Brands Hatch - SAFE BUT FAST!

Setups are made with TC on in mind and muting most of the Audi specific, undesired traits. We can't change the position of the engine and some things will always remind you of the Audi, but I think this is surprisingly different to what you know!

Race drivers always seek for the duality of physics: He/she wants traction. And Rotation. A good front end and a good rear. The truth is: It's all always there, but what the driver is unhappy with is laptime and corner speed. Always. The Audi has one of the best front ends you can find and it has good electronics, too. But with the big V10 in the back, there's a decent amount of weight that is trying to make your life harder. It provides good traction in quali and allows to slide the rear just about as much as you want. But in the race it will work the rear tires quite a bit and controlling temperature there becomes crucial.

Here on Brands Hatch we need high speed corner rotation and slow speed traction over bumps. Usually requirements that don't go well together. However, there's always a way to compromise. Without raising the rear too much we're using more front range here to get the nose to bite in the fast turns. Yet on exit the lower rear helps with traction and reducing nervousness of the car over bumps. Using the higher of two possible gears usually helps here to stabilizer and calm the car further and also saving you to time of an upshift. 

Electronics:
TC1 on 1 or OFF for Q and also 1 for Race feels best for me as the car allows you to actually work with the rear on throttle (The sequence seems to be 1, 2, 4, 5, 3, 6 ... and is mostly down to how much oversteer the TC will tolerate). Ideally you will use the lowest TC you can handle, cause it really cuts a lot. Especially in T1 and the chicane TC on 1 will gain a lot of time. I would keep TC2 around 0-5 (it doesnt have that much impact if anything at all).
ABS on 2-3 seems predictable. On this patch lower ABS is better still. Try to stay on 2 and rather shift the brake bias. 

Adjustments

• The spring steps are rather large
• stiffen front spring if braking into the corners is an issue or the car is generally too oversteery for you, yet its almost maxed out, so rather reduce rear ride height, or limit the front suspension travel with the bump stop range (NOTE: Stiffer front spring will cause issues on the lage kerbs. Rather use other means of adjustment!)
• move BB forward if too loose into the corners. 
• adjust rear ride height for over/understeer by 1mm steps. Also consider raising the front as the downforce loss is minimal, which allows for subtle balance adjustments
• Raise the entire car a bit if you want more tolerance over kerbs, the car barely loses downforce with higher ride heights - however the weight travel will be more pronounced and also some top speed loss will occur
• The front tire temp will be higher than the rear, thats how stable the setup is designed. But thats also the better option as the rear will quickly suffer grip loss if you overdrive it and heat it up too much on top of the rear wear - however front and rear wear on the audi are generally close together

Driving

• into the hairpins you can be quite aggressive with the brake, the ABS will sort you out. Try a slightly diagonal braking line in the very last phase of braking for the hairpin (T2) but stay outside very long for T4. 
• Onto the throttle don't just floor it in the slower corners, give the car some time (say, half a second) and it will thank you
• aim for late apex in hairpins, try to trail deep, immediate but progressive throttle, little to no coasting in tight corners, aggressive throttle in longer corners. early power is very crucial to work the diff and unload the front.
• Exits are always more important than entries

LFM:
The R25 setup carries fuel for 25m and will refuel enough to make it through the 45m race.

Enjoy and leave feedback!